The existence of Plymouth’s Sound Underwater Centre is one of the many things in British diving which we simply take for granted.

On arriving for a stay at Plymouth, the first stop on the agenda is invariably the bar - not just in order to enjoy necessary refreshments: but also to savour that overwhelming first impression of the Sound sweeping away to the horizon punctuated only by the equally impressive Plymouth Breakwater.

Shore Diving

The shore diving is some of the best in Britain. Shore diving is especially good in the vicinity of Bovisand Fort (the old national diving centre) but it is often ignored in favour of the offshore wrecks. However, this area is, in fact, immensely scenic, especially the rock-pools and gullies immediately in front of the bar.

In the shallows, stringweeds such as bootlace weed and throngweed reach to the surface in many places, forming a canopy with the falling tide. Green weeds such as sea lettuce carpet the bottom, creating the impression of grassy fields bounded by poplars.

The rocks that cover and uncover are worn smooth, with only hardy beadlet anemones and barnacles braving the sudden changes of temperature, salinity, and oxygen levels. There are many large rock pools on the lower shore which flood with each tide, even on neaps, leaving a variety of fish trapped at low water. Sea scorpions, blennies, shanny and rock gobies all inhabit this area.

The rock pools are quite a hike at low tide. At high tide, however, it is possible to swim along the series of rock-pools and gain direct access to a particularly interesting gully leading to open sea via a short tunnel.

The rocky shoreline gives way to kelp at the 5m mark, Ledges and walls run in all directions like a maze, each looking the same as the next one. just to confuse your navigation. Small cracks and crevices are inhabited by tompot blennies, crabs, and lobsters,

The harbour at Bovisand is used mostly for launching or training, and consequently an SMB is essential when diving here due to the density of boat traffic. The A-flag flies constantly from the harbour wall, confirming that this is the one place in Britain where the diver really does have right of way and this includes right of way over anglers fishing from the harbour walI

An underwater nature trail runs in the opposite direction, but you could equally well follow your nose, exploring the gullies and boulders there.

Parking can get a bit tight around the Fort, and launching from a trailer is an operation best done early.

Offshore Diving

Once you get your boat in the water, you will find that, offshore, Plymouth Sound provides some fantastic wreck diving. The seabed is littered with small items to collect such as spoons and bottles. But if you see anything that looks suspiciously like ammunition, leave it alone!

Every conceivable type of wreck, from Lancaster Bomber to barge, lies here at a variety of depths. Several excellent guide books catalogue the numerous marks and background information for the serious wreck diver.

The enormous breakwater, which was built to protect Plymouth harbour from southerly gales, is a short hop by inflatable and worth a dive. The western end provides a scenic dive if you catch it on the ebb to carry you around. Depths of 1 5m can be found, along with a riot of deadman’s fingers and hundreds of sea cucumbers. Your boat cover can land you on the breakwater and watch your progress around, then hop in and collect you as you surface.

The amount of shipping in the area dictates caution. If in doubt about the wisdom of your intended dive site, call the coastguard on your VHF. Incidentally, the Navy gets very sensitive about prowling inflatables, so watch out for exocets!

Around the corner, beyond Penlee point and Rame Head, is the James Egan Layne, one of the UK’s best known wrecks. Lying on sand, with 20m to the bottom but as shallow as 6m on her bows, the Layne has something for everyone.

She was a ‘liberty ship’, ferrying a cargo of pick-axe handles from the States as a worthy contribution to the war effort when she was sunk in March 1946 by a torpedo from a U-boat.

The James Egan Layne can be dived by inflatable from Bovisand, or, most conveniently, from one of the hardboats on local charter.

There are plenty of local operators offering hardboat diving. For many there is no pre-booking; simply turn up in reception at 9am any Saturday or Sunday morning and decide with the other divers where you would like to go.

The land-based facilities at Plymouth are everything a diver could want: a hot shower after the dive; a bar to have a drink in; and a bed not too far away to stagger to.

And of course Plymouth has an excellent reputation for diver training. Residential and non-residential courses run year round.

Egan Layne pic by David Stephens, all other text/photos by   Benny Sutton